18 Haziran 2012 Pazartesi

Really Slow Food

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I’ve actually used Facebook to track down local foodingredients, including five pounds of lard for tamales and our Thanksgivingturkey. It really wasn’t a surprise when I got another kind of local foodrequest through Facebook, “Can you cook for a Slow Food event on April 29?”
What I did not expect was the adventure in what I can onlyrefer to as Really. Slow. Food. With the attendance planned for less than 30people and just three small courses, we started out pretty confident.


The PlanOne of the hardest parts of planning a local food event amonth out is that you are really not sure if the menu you planned will matchthe food available. This approach is a whole lot easier in say, SouthernCalifornia, rather than the Midwest where we have 90 degrees in mid-April thena frost warning the very next week.
My usual approach of shopping the farmers market first, thenmaking the dinner menu was not an option. You just can’t put off all thecooking to the afternoon before when you are planning on serving up to 35people!
Now, to request a couple vacation days from my full time joband get cooking. And be grateful my husband took some time off to help, too! He's been really supportive on these events and doesn't get the thanks or attention.
Things I learned:Keep the menu flexible for last minute swaps or additions.Plan at least one dish that is based on an ingredient youknow you can locally source, such as the meat or a year-round staple like eggs.Plan recipes that are mostly make ahead just in case thingsget crazy…
Recipe 1: Asparagus and Potato Salad with Lemon MintDressing
For the dressing:
Juice and zest of three lemons
1 tbs. dijon mustard
2 tbs honey
1 tbs. white balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:
2 cups greens, divided for four plates (spring mix, or green and red leaf)
3 tbs. chopped mint, blend with greens
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1 lb. of asparagus
1 lb. new potatoes (I love the blue ones for this)
Feta cheese, optional, but lovely
Coarse finishing salt, black pepper to taste

Wash and boil the potatoes, skin on, until tender. Remove from water, and chill for two hours. Blanch the asparagus for three minutes and shock in ice water to stop the cooking and set the color.

Whisk the dressing together. Chop the hard-boiled egg (or served halved). Assemble each of the four plates with greens, two potatoes sliced lengthwise, 1/4 of the asparagus, 1/4 of the egg. Drizzle with the lemon-mint dressing. Finish with coarse sea salt and black pepper if desired. Sprinkle on 1 tbs. of feta. Serves 8 small portions.
Sourcing IngredientsOne of the great things about Slow Food is the network ofpeople in the group, which includes farmers where we can source ingredients.The harder part is sourcing from many different farms means more time sourcingthan cooking. Some would say here, “Isn’t one trip to the grocery store a wholelot easier?”
Um, yes. But, where’s the adventure in that? Or the flavor.Or the variety. Still, the four trips to three different farms, a trip to thelocal butcher, and two farmers markets racked up the frequent buyer miles (but not nearly the average of 1500 for a single grocery store ingredient!). Forour Slow Food board member (Jamie, you are amazing!), it also meant doing someof the harvesting, too!
The day was not without stress. After a call to the u-pick farmwith asparagus, we learned they had over-picked for the day and our only optionthere would be to return and harvest the following day, but no guarantees ofenough for our event. Sometimes things just don’t work out. These are real peopleand not some automated system, which is far more of a benefit than a problem. Aquick call to a different farmer, and our menu was back on track.
Things I learned: Sometimes local food is not the easy choice. It’s still thebest choice.You can never know too many farmers.They call it Slow Food for a reason. Embrace the process.

Recipe 2: Grilled Flank Steak with Radish Chimichurri
2 lbs. flank steak

Marinade:
½ cup dry red wine (Cabernet)
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tbs. Worcestershire sauce
2 tbs. organic canola oil
Few grinds of pepper
Juice of 1 lemon plus zest
4 cloves garlic, smashed

Whisk marinade ingredients together and place in sturdy zip lock bag with the flank steak. Marinade at least two hours, up to overnight.

Radish Chimichurri
1/2 cup cilantro, packed leaves
1/4 cup parsley, packed leaves
1/4 cup mint, packed leaves
20 small radishes, 1/2-1 inch diameter
4 spring onions, white plus 1 inch of green, or use garlic scapes
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp. coarse sea salt
1/8-1/4 crushed red pepper

Chop the radishes and onions or garlic scapes finely. Chop herbs, add the radish and onion blend. Drizzle in oil and vinegar. Blend in salt and red pepper.

Remove steaks from marinade and discard marinade. Grill over direct heat to desired doneness, depending on the thickness of the steaks, about 6 minutes per side for a 1-1/2 inch thick steak for medium-rare. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Makes eight 4 oz. servings.
In the KitchenOne thing I wanted with the menu, other than including asmany local ingredients as possible, being flexible, and make ahead (no smalltask) is to have a consistent flavor palate that would connect all the dishes.For that, we leveraged one local and abundant ingredient — mint — and the lastof the winter citrus with lemons. Sure, citrus not local. It never will belocal and neither is my morning coffee or my weakness for dark chocolate. Forthese items, it’s best to seek out US grown where possible, organic, and fairtrade.
By the fifth batch of lemon curd, we were pretty glad that it’sthe end of citrus season. By the time we got the salad dressing done, the lemonrinds were building up. We compost everything we can, but here my spouse hadheard that citrus acid slows the composting process. I had heard a few lemonrinds keep your disposal clean and working well. I am pretty sure neither bitof this advice was meant to cover forty lemon rinds.
Working over the sink, I began to hear an odd sloshingsound. I looked down and was now standing in water with lemon pulp. Thedisposal double duty pretty well rattled the pipes apart. We had a flood underthe sink, in the lower cabinet, on the floor, down into the basement wall.
The good news is that when it comes to plumbing emergencies,there are far worse types of floods to have than lemon water. Plus, my husbandis good with plumbing. We were left with half our pots and pans on the countersand a newly cleaned kitchen that needed drying out. Cooking was put on holduntil the next day. This was the only moment in the process where I wondered ifI could really make this happen, even with my husband's help and support.
It was a good time to be grateful for simple menus. And friendswho grill. Heading to bed, exhausted and smelling strongly of lemon, I made onedesperate text to Craig Adcock.
“Can I drop marinade ingred. and meat off for you to grill?”
The response of yes was just what I needed to fall asleep. Still, Craig's good karma he earned from helping out didn't keep it from pouring rain the day of the event as he stood outside at the grill. The rain was at least good for the farmers.

What I learned:
Forty lemons really should go in the compost.
Every home should have a pipe wrench and one person who knows how to use it. Which is not me, definitely. (Thanks, Kurt!)
Craig Adcock is amazing for standing in the rain grilling.


Recipe 3: Lemon Curd with Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote

2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon
1 cup plus 2 Tbs. sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and seeded
1 Tbs. lemon juice plus zest
4 cups 1/2-inch pieces fresh rhubarb (about 1.5 pounds trimmed)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 quart strawberries, cored, stemmed and sliced
Few grinds of black pepper
Pinch salt

Combine wine, sugar, zest, lemon juice and vanilla in heavy large saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.

Add rhubarb and salt and simmer until wine syrup in saucepan until slightly thickened and reduced to 1 1/4 cups, about 10 minutes. Add the strawberries for the last few minutes, to cook slightly, but not turn to mush, add salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Cool and store in refrigerator.

Lemon Curd
3 eggs plus 4 yolks
1 cup sugar
1 cup lemon juice plus zest of 3 lemons (5 lemons total needed)
Pinch salt
¼ cup cold butter

Whisk eggs and sugar, whisk in juice and zest. Place over simmering water (double boiler) until thickens, stir in butter. Whisk five more minutes. Remove from heat to a bowl. Cover surface with cling wrap and refrigerate to prevent skin forming.

To serve, place lemon curd in a ramekin or glass dessert dish, spoon the compote over top. Garnish with mint leaves.

Serves 8-10.

The Event
Food got finished. Things were together, we made it, as in WE, not me. Because it was a team effort. And I hope everyone enjoyed the meal. As for me, when I was up talking about the joy of local food, I could look back at the kitchen and see my family, one of my best friends for over thirty years who came, and Craig, who is a friend I hope to still have in thirty years. That's what made the whole event worthwhile.

What I learned:
I wouldn't trade local sourcing, for all its quirks, for any other way.
At the end of the day, family, friends and sharing good food is what it's all about.
It's good to have a spouse who loves to cook and puts up with the adventures.

Ingredients Sourced from:
Urbavore Farm; eggs, mint, salad greens, herbs, radishes, spring garlic and the venue!
Cultivate KC; cilantro and parsley
Local Pig; flank steak
Red Ridge Farms; potatoes
Samyn Farm; spring onions, asparagus
Door-to-door Organics; lemons
Prairie Ridge Farm; Rhubarb
Shatto Farm; butter

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